The Watch Snob

I know in your past articles you have been very critical of Panerai timepieces. However, I recently read about a new watch with the Panerai badge sporting an in-house movement, the PAM 338, which is smaller. Do you think this could be a turning point for the company, and do you think their in-house movement would be respectable enough to spend almost $8,000 on?

While I am often cast as a Panerai hater, let me set the record straight. The company had a long history as a respectable maker of nautical and diving instruments. The fact that its early dive watches often used Rolex or Angelus movements never troubled me because Panerai never really proclaimed they were watchmakers but rather instrument producers.

But in the 1990s, in a story that is well known to many, a certain second-rate porn-star-turned-action-film-actor discovered the brand, and soon, as the French like to say, Panerai started throwing flowers at themselves. They were bought by a conglomerate, moved from Italy to Switzerland and started charging exorbitant prices for giant watches with pedestrian movements inside. They enjoyed success thanks to guys with bigger wrists (and wallets) than brains.

The new PAM 338 isn’t Panerai’s first attempt at an in-house movement, but I feel like it is the first one really worth considering. Yes, that was painful for me to write. I say that not because the movement breaks new ground but because it is priced more appropriately for a time-only in-house movement. Whether a movement can be called truly in-house when a company shares the stable with Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Lange is up for debate.

But at least it’s not another gussied up tractor from the House of Swatch. Now, I still don’t think 42mm is small. 40mm would have been a better, more restrained size. But an old dog can only learn one new trick at a time.

--The Watch Snob

The Nautilus: Back in Black

When is a Patek Philippe ever a bad choice? If you can afford one, it’s pretty much never an ill decision -- unless you want something highly unique. Patek Philippe is the straight and sober luxury watch brand that continues to soar in popularity and collector value.



The Nautilus is the maker’s classic diver-style sport line, and it has always been the most “eager to be active” watch of the entire collection. The last few years have seen the Nautilus line grow in size and be offered with additional complications than just the time. The Patek Philippe Nautilus chronograph sits in the middle of the range with a great look and that always-appreciated Patek Philippe touch.

Within the Patek Philippe Nautilus chronograph is the beautifully made in-house Caliber CH 28-520 C automatic chronograph movement with a solid gold rotor. In addition to the time and date, it has a 12-hour chronograph complication -- all contained in one subdial. The trick is having a dial within a dial. The central seconds hand for the watch is used for the chronograph seconds, while the two subsidiary hands are used for the chronograph minutes and hours. This gives the watch dial a very clean and attractive look, something that Patek Philippe is known for mastering.

The Watch Snob

"I was wondering what your opinion is of the new Rolex Deepsea. Is it worth the investment? Some claim it is too big, too bold and somehow counter to the Rolex tradition. I like it and was thinking about adding it to my collection."



The Rolex Deepsea, despite coming from the premier manufacturer of sport watches in the world, is rather daft and more than a little preposterous. It is oversize, overspec’d and overpriced. To us purists, it’s an abomination; the tragic offspring of the best line of diving watches in the world. It never should have been made. Do yourself a favor and buy a secondhand Sea Dweller (pictured below) while you still can, as that is the last great Rolex diving watch.





It's helpful here to remember the four words that Hans Wilsdorf, co-founder of Rolex, was determined would forever be associated with his watches: Excellence, elegance, style and prestige. The DeepSea is none of these.



--Watch Snob